If you meet anyone from the tiny region that looks like the North East of Spain, they will tell you that they are from the Basque Country – for me it was a surprise to see that they identify themselves so clearly as distinct from the rest of Spain. Especially seeing as the Basques get quite a bad press throughout Europe.
But to delve into current affairs here would be doing the Basques an injustice when as a people they are a very welcoming host to tourists. The Basque Country, as a nation of Basques, crosses the border into France - straddling the region of the Pyrenees and providing some of the most spectacular scenery in Europe.
Amongst other things, the Basque Country is world renowed for the quality of its traditional cuisine as well as for the imagination of its nouvelle cuisine. For me, that is the only reason I need to get my well rounded butt down there.
This part of ‚Spain‘ blows away any Northern European preconceptions of the country… It is Green, the weather is tempestuous and there are no white villas on the hillside.
A large port city, with a ship building past, Bilbao has an International Airport served by a few of the low cost airlines and, of course, the national carrier Iberia. Here you will find the life expected of a big city, a commercial skyline is filled with skyscrapers and streets humming with activity.
And Bilbao, would see itself as a modern city, but it is also an old city and so a walking tour presents an entertaining clash of the romantic and the futuristic.
The Bilbao river mouth is bridged, at a village/suburb called Portugalete, by one of the most curious suspension bridges from the 1800’s. It is for pedestrains only and you have to climb up a long way.. Crossing it is more like an adventure sport.
If you have driven from Bilbao to San Sebastian, then you have already discovered the pretty dramatic, cliffy coastline that stretches between these, the two largest coastal towns in the region. And then you happen upon this perfect natural harbor, with sweeping beach that is the obvious reason why San Sebastian was built here in the first place.
San Sebastian is far into the Basque country, and close to the French border but still is major seaside resort for the Spanish. A little strange perhaps considering it must be the coldest climate in the country. Here you’ll find classic resort town trimmings such as a promenade along the sea front and casinos where the wealthy waste their time.
Just a few kilometers further east and you arrive at the frontier towns of Hondarribia and Irun.. but these days, of course, there are no border controls, so you can experience both the French and the Spanish Basque countries just by crossing the river.